Anyone who has ever watched Norm Abrams on television knows that he never delves into a woodworking task until he has given his viewers the obligatory safety briefing--namely that we must always wear our eye and ear protection. These bits of sage advice resonate with woodworkers. We know that hazards abound in the work shop. We hear of fellow woodworkers losing some fingers or an eye, or we turn on the news to watch someone's garage burn to the ground. Sadly, most of these catastrophes are preventable. Yet it's often an uphill battle to identify, understand, minimize (much less remain mindful of) the many risks associated with using tools and equipment. Many of us have experienced a few "near-misses," the piece of wood being kicked back by a table saw, the startling jolt of 120 volts from touching a wire we didn't realize was hot, or the nail gun that shoots a fastener just a bit too close to some appendage. We've all done it. We walk away a little shaken and tell ourselves that we won't let that happen again. We are lucky, and we have once again dodged fate.

After several years of pursuing woodworking as a serious pastime, I hope that I can share some insight into some of the common hazards that home woodworking hobbyists may encounter, and illuminate some protective measures that can be implemented. While not an exhaustive list of potential hazards, this article should at least embody some of the more obvious pitfalls, and provide practical solutions. If this article helps one person enjoy his or her pastime with a bit more vigilance and caution, then my efforts here have been worthwhile.

General safety considerations.

The best safety tool we can apply to our daily activities is clear-headed judgment. Nothing beats good-old common sense, a healthy dose of caution, and continuous vigilance. Being constantly aware of potential dangers, and maintaining a high level of alertness, will go a long way toward keeping you and the people around you safe. While it seems I am stating the obvious here, I simply cannot emphasize it enough. Make sure you are in the right state of mind before starting up that saw. Lack of sleep, being distracted, and worse yet, being under the influence of alcohol or drugs, are ingredients of disaster. No horseplay. Your high school shop teacher's rule still holds.

Understand fully the nature of the work you are planning to do. Fully familiarize yourself with the tools and methods you will be employing, if you haven't already. Those instruction manuals that come with your tools, and the labels on containers of finishes and other chemicals are there for a reason. Read them and know how they apply to you, your tools and your tasks. After you purchase a new tool, put it through its paces. Set it up properly, adjust and calibrate it as needed, then make a few trial runs using scraps. Do this before you need to use it on your projects. The proper use of your tools should be second-nature.

Have a plan. Not just in the sense of drawings or blueprints, but a plan of how you will tackle your project from start to finish. Jot down some brief notes ahead of time to outline how you will progress through each stage of your project. Anticipate problems along the way, and have some ideas about how you will overcome them. Keep safety in mind, as these unexpected problems become prime opportunities for bad things to happen -- especially if you cut corners. Don't rush through a project. Take the time to do it safely, and allow yourself some rest breaks. Know what tools and methods you will use for each step along the way. Ask yourself if it is the best and safest way. Use the right tools for the job, and make sure those tools are in good condition. Determine if you will need the help of others, and don't be afraid to ask them before you find yourself in a jam.

Your plan should be coupled with good organization. Make sure you have adequate room to work and to move things around. Many shops, like mine, are tight on space. Be sure you can move about freely and access the things you need without climbing over a lot of clutter. Keep your shop neat and as orderly as possible. Avoid trip hazards, and protruding objects that you could bump into. Surfaces and corners with sharp or jagged edges should be smoothed or covered with tape. Don't leave items lying about on the floor. Make sure items on open shelves and racks are secure and not prone to falling off. There are many ways you can organize things in your work areas, and woodworkers, by their nature, are adept at devising clever ways to stow things away in their shops. Shelves, cabinets, chests of drawers, toolboxes, wall-mounted racks, and even the venerable pegboard-on-the-wall system of storage can help you keep your tools and supplies out of the way yet within easy reach. If you are not sure how to organize things, or you just want a few fresh ideas, there are books on shop design and layout that you can find at your local library or bookstore. Also look over some of the online discussion groups dedicated to woodworking. Most of these have discussion threads addressing shop layout and storage. Don't be afraid to join one or more of these groups and ask questions. Woodworkers are a friendly, helpful bunch.

Keep your shop reasonably clean. Don't let mountains of dust pile up everywhere, or leave cans of finishes sitting around. This can create fire and contamination hazards, as well as becoming an annoyance. Store used rags in an airtight metal container, use a shop vacuum or dust collector to remove dust and shavings, keep the floor swept, and throw away unusable items that are just getting in the way. Get into the habit of returning tools to their storage places immediately after you are done using them. You won't have your tools strewn all over the place, and they will be easier to find next time you need them.

Make sure your work environment is right for the types of tasks you are doing. Have good lighting so that you can fully observe everything you are doing. Poor visibility can give rise to accidents. Provide sufficient workspace for the various stages of construction of your crafts. Use good jigs, clamps, hold-downs, and other shop aids to assist you in the proper fabrication and assembly of your projects. Be sure that you have good ventilation when working with chemicals, and wear the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) for the task at hand. Keep curious onlookers at a safe distance, both for their safety, and to minimize their distraction of your attention. Better yet, if someone else doesn't need to be there, they shouldn't be.

Fire prevention.

Working with wood and the countless chemical finishes, treatments and solvents that go with it, presents opportunities for fire hazards. Stories abound of hapless woodworkers who find themselves in a fire situation. Fires can be prevented. You just need to understand how the problems can arise and take the proper measures to prevent them from occurring.

Many of the chemical products we use are flammable, being derived from petroleum and other organic sources. Many chemicals are based on volatile organic compounds (VOCs), such things as alcohols, acetone, mineral spirits, naptha, methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), and others. These liquids typically have low boiling points (they evaporate readily), and have low "flash points" -- easily ignited at low temperatures. Under the right conditions, open containers of these chemicals can quickly fill a room with vapors. If a certain mixture of vapor/oxygen exists (being within so-called "lower explosive limits"--LEL and "upper explosive limits"--UEL), a mere spark, hot surface or open flame can trigger a fire or explosion. Also, some finishes are oil-based and dry by oxidation. Examples of these include linseed oil, tung oil, polyurethane topcoats, and oil-based paints. The oxidation process is "exothermic," meaning that it generates heat, which if concentrated within a small enough volume with a supply of air, can ignite nearby combustible materials. Rags and waste matter permeated with oil-based substances can suddenly ignite due to this oxidation heat buildup, in a process we know of as spontaneous combustion. No spark or flame is required to initiate this process - it generates its own heat. Even more insidious is the fact that spontaneous combustion can occur hours, even days, later -- long after you have left the shop.

Flammable solvents and finishes should be kept in their original containers, with the lids secured tightly when not in use. If you need to transfer finishes to another container, be sure to mark the new container's contents, so that there is no misunderstandings later. Store these chemicals in an enclosed box or cabinet, away from heat sources and direct sunlight. Only keep on hand the amounts you need for immediate projects. Avoid stocking up huge caches of flammable chemicals. If you must keep large quantities on hand, try to store them in a good, element-proof locker or cabinet outdoors, if possible, secured with a good padlock. If your shop is in a part of your dwelling, i.e., the basement or an attached garage, keep chemicals as far from sleeping quarters as possible.

Dispose of oily and solvent-soaked rags and waste in an airtight metal container. For small amounts, a clean gallon metal paint can with a tight-fitting lid will work. For larger amounts of waste, consider buying an approved safety disposal can. Never leave oil or solvent-laden materials laying around, or "just out to dry."

Use caution with sources of heat and ignition. Sparks from grinders can easily spark a fire. Never connect a dust collector or shop vacuum to a grinder. Sparks sucked inside can later ignite the piles of sawdust inside the bag. Keep your shop clean and ensure that combustibles are out of the way of these operations. Make sure that shop heaters are properly set up, located away from combustibles, and well-maintained. Inspect this equipment regularly, or have a service technician examine it. Welders, torches and soldering irons should never be used close to combustible material such as wood, paper, chemicals, etc. Never smoke in the vicinity combustible materials.

Exit paths. Be sure that you always provide some clearance to get out in the event of a fire. Keeping your shop clean and uncluttered can help if you need to escape in a hurry. Keep an approved fire extinguisher on hand and in an accessible location. Make sure it is up-to-date and properly maintained. Fire extinguishers are only intended to put out small fires -- don't try to put out an extensive blaze with one. If the room is becoming engulfed with flames or smoke, get out immediately! Your shop can be replaced. You cannot.

Electrical safety. While this subject will be given more attention below, it is incumbent upon any woodworker to be aware of electrical fire hazards. Overloaded circuits, faulty wiring and cords, and improper over-current protection devices can create sources of ignition.

Minimizing physical injury hazards from tools.

Woodworking is a dynamic process. We cut wood with saws, mill and shape it with routers, planers, jointers, and drills. We fasten it with nails, screws, bolts, pins and dowels using a variety of tools. With this much action it is no surprise that accidents can and do occur. There is a frightening array of potential hazards to the human body: cuts, abrasions, lacerations, punctures, loss of limbs and eyes. One universal truth is that devices meant to cut, shape or pierce hard wood will have no problem cutting, shaping or piercing human tissue. Tools don't care what they cut.

Know your tools. I've said it before: understand how your tools operate, and know their capabilities. Read through the tool's manual, and review it if you haven't used the tool in a while. Pick the right tool for the job and be sure that it is in good working order before you start using it. Use the correct blade or bit for the tool and the task at hand, and make certain it is sharp. Dull blades and bits require more force to do the same job, which invites slipups and accidents. A dull cutter will also generate more heat, which accelerates its failure and could create a hazard. Be aware of the direction of rotation of a cutting tool, and keep yourself away from the "line of fire" in the event the workpiece kicks back or otherwise flies off the surface. Smaller workpieces are particularly prone to going ballistic, and can be quite dangerous if not secured properly. Know the material you are cutting. Beware of nails and other metal fasteners that could be lurking in lumber. Let the tool coast completely to a stop before reaching near it. Even without power, those spinning blades and bits can cause serious injury. Listen to your tools as you work (with hearing protection, of course). If something doesn't sound right, stop immediately.

Check to see that all safety guards are in place and properly aligned on your tools. Never remove, defeat or modify a safety guard. Look to see that air hoses and power cords are routed away from moving parts, to prevent entanglements. Avoid wearing clothing and jewelry that can become caught in machinery. Necklaces, neckties, chains, and unbuttoned shirt sleeves are a few examples of things that can become snagged in rotating machines, quickly pulling you in. If it's a battle between your arm and a 2 horsepower motor, the motor will win. Keep long hair "put up" or in a ponytail to keep it from being caught. Remove rings and watches before using power tools.

Use shop aids, such as push sticks/blocks, fences, and jigs to help you feed the workpiece into machinery while keeping your hands at a safe distance. When using hand-held tools (powered or manual), keep the workpiece securely in place by using clamps or hold down devices. Many of these shop aids can be shop-made from scraps of lumber and some inexpensive hardware. Never place hands near any saw blade or reach over a blade to retrieve cut-offs.

Last but certainly not least, use approved personal protective equipment (PPE), such as goggles or face shields, hearing protection, dust respirators and gloves. Invest in quality gear -- don't skimp on this. Expect to pay around $100 for a good set of equipment that includes a face shield, respirator, hearing protector muffs, and work gloves. Money well spent. Home center stores sell good models of these, but an industrial supply store will have better ones. Make sure the equipment complies with OSHA and is NIOSH-approved. This is a small price to pay for protecting your safety.

Electrical safety.

Electric power tools, and the electrical circuits and systems that supply them can pose dangers. The fact that electricity cannot be "seen" makes these dangers even more insidious. Electricity can pose two major risks: electrocution and fire. Unless you are performing your woodworking entirely with hand tools by candlelight, considerations to potential electrical problems must be made.

Electrical shock hazards can arise in many situations. Not knowing that a circuit is live, or erroneously thinking that you have the power disconnected are common errors. Be absolutely certain that you have the power disconnected before attempting to access electrical circuitry and conductors. That means unplugging a power tool before working with its wiring, or shutting off power at the circuit panel. If you are not certain the power has been disconnected, check it with a voltage tester. Keep water and other liquids away from electrical equipment. Don't leave your power tools outside in the rain. If water gets into a power tool, disconnect the tool's power before investigating, then make sure the equipment is completely dry (inside and out) before reconnecting power.

Improper grounding is another source of shock hazards. If a tool has a third, grounding prong, do not cut this prong or defeat it by using an ungrounded adapter. Many tools have had their metal chassis bonded to ground. In the event of a fault (a hot conductor contacts a chassis component), the chassis bonding will allow this current to short-circuit to ground, and trip the circuit breaker. If you have removed the grounding prong of the tool's plug, and a fault to chassis occurs, the current has no path to ground and the chassis will now become energized. If you come in contact with the chassis, you will become energized as well -- and not in the good way!

Worn or frayed cords can become a shock hazard, and possibly a fire hazard. Check equipment cords and extension cords for signs of wear, cuts and broken insulation. Use the proper wire gauge of cord based on the length of the cord and the current (amps) of the tool being used. Remember that extension cords are intended for temporary use -- don't hard-wire your shop with these. If you intend to have a dedicated location for a tool, you should provide an outlet nearby to plug it in. If you must run extension cords to temporarily bring power to a tool, be careful how you route the cord. Do not leave it running across the floor, where it can present a trip hazard, or be damaged by rolling tools. When cutting lumber with circular saws, take care not to lop off the cord. Cords should never be routed under rugs and carpet. Plugging multiple taps into an outlet can be a disaster waiting to happen. If what's plugged into an outlet looks somewhat like an octopus, this should be cause for concern. Many fires have started due to too many extension cords plugged into an outlet.

Malfunctioning equipment can present a shock and/or fire hazard. Frequent circuit breaker trips, hot cords and components, smoke or that tell-tale "scorched" smell should serve as immediate warning signs not to be ignored. If you have any doubt about the condition of your electrical equipment, unplug it immediately and have it serviced by an approved technician or service center.

Do not exceed the capacities of the electrical branch circuits you will be using. Most household 120 volt circuits are rated for either 15 or 20 amps. In other words, these circuits are protected by over-current devices such as circuit breakers or fuses that are designed to trip when the current exceeds the rated ampacity. Overloading such circuits can result in frequent breaker trips. If you use a lot of tools, consider installing additional branch circuits if there is enough capacity in your service panel. Consider putting some or all of your shop lighting on a dedicated circuit. If you trip a breaker with a power tool, you won't be standing in the dark with a still-spinning blade somewhere.

If you are contemplating installing your own wiring, consider this: if you have any doubts or reservations at all about your abilities in this area, DON'T DO IT. Performing DIY electrical wiring is a task not to be taken lightly. Hire a licensed electrician or contractor to do the work. It will cost you some $$$, but it is cheap insurance for knowing that the job is done right. In some jurisdictions, it is illegal for non-licensed individuals to perform DIY electrical work, even in their own homes. Check your local codes before starting any work.

Respiratory safety - keeping the air you breathe clean.

Dust control in woodshops is a hot topic, one that has generated lots of discussion among woodworkers. And rightly so, as exposure to wood dust can give rise to a number of medical problems, including lung diseases, skin disorders, allergies and more. A thorough discussion of dust control can become a volume unto itself, and there are even books devoted to the subject. I have even produced plans and how-to information for some DIY dust control devices. The topic is far too broad to provide comprehensive discussion here, so I will limit this section to a few salient points.

By far the best method of dust control is to collect it at the source, i.e., at the machine. An investment in a good shop vacuum at the very least, or better yet, a dust collector, will provide a means to catch most of the wood dust before it becomes airborne. Since the finer dust is the most pervasive -- it remains suspended in the air the longest and penetrates deeper into the lungs -- it is wise to choose a dust collector with a filter bag or canister that traps particles down to 1 micron or even smaller. Choose a model with sufficient airflow (measured in CFM) to handle the dust output of the machines you will be using.

The next important prong of dust control is to remove the airborne component. While at first glance this may seem akin to closing the gate after the horses have escaped, it is a reality that your dust collector is not going to remove all of the dust generated by your tools. In addition, some tools are just not conducive to dust collection. It's inevitable -- some of the dust produced by machinery will find its way into the air. There are a number of good room air filtration units that you can purchase, or you can build your own from fans and high-quality furnace filters. As with the dust collector, you should also select a room air cleaner that uses filters capable of trapping 1 micron dust.

Good ventilation can help. Keeping doors and windows open (weather permitting) can alleviate some of the airborne dust. Placing a box fan in an open window can help force some cross-ventilation through your shop and dissipate dust and fumes.

Sanding poses unique dust problems, as few belt or orbital sanders are capable by themselves of retaining much of the dust they generate. The attached dust bags or canisters on sanders typically catch only a small fraction of the dust. It is sometimes possible to attach a shop vacuum or dust collector hose to a sander, but this often entails some form of shop-made hose adaptor. You may wish to consider making a downdraft box for collecting dust from sanding small workpieces. A downdraft box is little more than an enclosure made from plywood or other sheet goods, with a series of air holes in the top surface. The box has a port for attaching a vacuum or dust collection hose, creating a downward air movement through the top surface. This downdraft will draw much of the generated dust downward through the holes and into the dust collector or shop vacuum.

Regardless of what you use for removing dust, it is still very important that you wear a good respirator. These can be purchased from some home center stores or industrial supply houses. Make sure it is OSHA/NIOSH approved, and designed for filtering fine dust down to a micron or smaller.

Maintain a good first aid kit.

While prevention is always the best remedy, one must always consider the possibility of an accident occurring. Having a good first aid kit on hand, located where you can get to it quickly, is vital. Keep this kit well-stocked with fresh supplies.

Some of the more common items that your first aid kit should include:

• Adhesive bandage strips, assorted sizes
• Butterfly closures
• Knuckle bandages
• Gauze pads
• Gauze roll
• Large dressings
• Waterproof first aid tape
• Antiseptic wipes
• Antiseptic ointment
• Cortisone cream
• Eye wash cup
• Bottle of clean water (For flushing out contaminants from eyes.)
• Fine-point tweezers (For removing wood slivers.)
• Scissors
• Small mirror (For viewing facial areas.)
• Instant cold pack and gallon zip-seal bag (For preserving and transporting severed appendages. I'm not joking here.)

Conclusions.

The key to a successful and safe woodworking experience is to maintain a good level of alertness and be on the lookout for dangers. Be aware of the common pitfalls, and anticipate problems along the way. Know your tools and other equipment, and be familiar with their operation. Follow the manufacturers' directions and don't push the tools beyond their capabilities. Similarly, don't push yourself beyond your capabilities either. Challenge yourself, but don't take on more than you can handle. Don't be averse to asking for help when faced with unwieldy tasks. Keep equipment in good working order, and repair or replace tools and components that are defective. Use approved personal protective equipment.

Good luck in all of your woodworking endeavours, and be safe.

Some additional resources.

Here are a few sources of relevant information:

AO Safety  Manufacturer of personal protection equipment (PPE).

Fire extinguishers  All you ever wanted to know about fire extinguishers.

Dust collector research  Extensive article on just about every aspect of dust collectors.

Jet  Jet dust collectors.

Penn State Industries  Dust collection equipment and accessories.

Electric wiring FAQ  Extensive list of questions answered on the topic of DIY electric wiring.