Kevin Brady - My Informational and Personal Interest Pages

A Brief Tour of My Wood Shop Construction Project

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7. Ceiling.

Before installing ceiling insulation, I had to ensure that the fiberglass batts would not plug the flow of air between the attic space and the soffit vents. To accomplish this, I nailed a short length of 2x4 between each truss, providing a baffle where the end of the insulation abuts.

I stapled 6-mil clear plastic on the ceiling to act as a vapor barrier. I left a strip open along the center for now, as I will need to access the attic space to install insulation.

Next I attached sheets of 7/16" thick OSB to the ceiling using drywall screws.

Cutouts for the electrical boxes.

The fluorescent lamps fixtures are now installed and connected to power. It's much brighter inside now!

Installation of the R-19 fiberglass insulation. I used craft-faced insulation, for the added vapor barrier.

Here the final strip of plastic sheeting is installed.

And now the ceiling is buttoned up. It was a hot, humid day, and even hotter inside that shed. Working overhead with fiberglass is not exactly a confortable task at any temperature. That was a chore I don't wish to repeat any time soon.

8. Wall insulation and interior sheathing.

One more itchy job with fiberglass: the walls. I installed craft-faced R-13 fiberglass into the walls.

Once the fiberglass was installed, I covered the walls with plastic sheeting for vapor barrier.

Next came the interior sheathing. I didn't want to look at ugly OSB in there, and I don't care for that cheap wood paneling, so I opted for a natural look: good 3/8" plywood. Easy to cut, easy to hang.

Since the walls are taller than the plywood sheets are long, I had to add a small section near the top. I attached thin cleats to support the plywood edges between studs.

Lots of cutouts in the plywood. That operation took up the bulk of the installation time.

I used 1-1/4" drywall screws to install the plywood.

Here is a view of the interior with the plywood sheathing in place.

View of one of the windows inside.

9. Adding the insulated wood floor.

Standing on a hard concrete floor is bad for the knees and back. In cold weather, it's bad for the feet. I decided to install an insulated wood floor atop the concrete. The floor is comprised of 2x2 treated sleepers, nailed to the concrete, with styrofoam insulation placed between them. Three-quarter inch plywood is then attached on top.

The assortment of tools needed to construct the floor.

I attached the sleepers to the concrete using Liquid Nails and a powder-actuated nailer with 2-1/2" nails.

The sleepers are now installed and ready for the foam board insulation.

Sheets of Dow styrofoam insulation.

Shims atop the sleepers. When purchasing the styrofoam, I was unable to find 1-1/2" thick sheets. Rather than stack layers of thinner sheets to equal the height of the sleepers, I decided to buy 2" thick sheets (R-10) and add a layer of plywood to the tops of the sleepers, as I had plenty of scrap sheet goods to use up.

One small spanner in the works: many of the powder-actuated nails stood proud on the sleepers.

With the protruding nail heads, I had to make the shims lay flush, as I didn't want to have hills and valleys showing up on my new floor. I set the shim in place and pounded the shim onto the nailhead with a hammer. Now it lays flat.

Cutting the styrofoam was easy -- just use a serrated knife with a straightedge to score the board.

Bend the piece to snap off.

I cut the pieces to fit snugly into the cavities and had to give them a push to fit them in.

The styrofoam is now in place.

Next task was to staple some 6 mil plastic on top for vapor barrier.

I attached 3/4" plywood on top and secured it to the sleepers with 2" galvanized deck screws.

I made sure to leave small gaps between the sheets to allow for expansion.

The floor is now installed. I rolled on some Thompson's Water Seal on the plywood to add a bit more moisture protection.

10. Some interior trim work.

I bought a good stack of 3/4" quarter-round stock to nail along the edges of the floors, walls and ceiling.

Quarter round trim in place. This adds a bit of a finished look, while covering all of the small gaps due to my sloppy carpentry. I'm really glad I have a finish nailer and compressor, as hand-nailing 160 feet of trim into corners would have been quite tedious.

I installed some casing trim around the windows...

...and around the door frame.

11. The great migration.

The next phase of my project was to roll all my tools and fixtures from the garage to the new shed. That is, afterall, the raison d'être of the place. I layed out all the sheets of leftover plywood and OSB to create a smooth "trail" through the yard. Rolling some of the heavier items was sort of touch-and-go, requiring the help of two other people to keep them steady.

Before long, my shed started to look like a shop.

I need only a few comforts of home out there, but a sound system is necessary!

I suspended the room air cleaner from the ceiling. It's high enough that I won't hit my head on it.

12. Some quick-and-dirty storage cabinets.

I kludged together a quick-and-dirty shelf for the electronics and battery pack chargers.

With space at a premium, I needed a good-sized set of cabinets to store hand tools and accessories. I chose to build a rather large set of plywood cabs on the back (north) wall. Building it and lifting it onto the wall would have been quite unwieldy, so instead I opted to construct it piece-by-piece on the wall. Starting with the bottom panel.

Next I added the vertical side panel against the wall on the right.

Then a divider...

...and another divider.

With the top panel and all sides in place I now have a three cavity enclosure. A really big three cavity enclosure.

I used metal corner hangers to add strength to the joints. This cabinet must hold a lot of weight.

I drilled holes at 1 inch intervals to add support pins for the adjustable shelves.

I bought a single sheet of cabinet-grade plywood and fabricated a set of doors.

I had a set of outfeed rollers that I used for the table saw. However, I wanted to fully utilize the space beneath them, so I built a rather ugly, but functional, shelving unit.

I bolted the rollers to the top (they are exactly the height of the table saw), and I now have an outfeed/cabinet I can slide to wherever I need it.

Storage for all the little things that matter: hordes of parts cabinets on the wall.

13. Siding.

With autumn approaching, I needed to button up the exterior. I chose to use 4' x 8' sheets of textured hardboard siding. This stuff comes already primed, so I can wait a while before painting. Here is the gable portion. Note the cool, retro porch lamp. Gives it an industrial touch.

Siding complete on the south wall. When cutting the siding, I applied some Thomson's Water Seal to the cut edge using a small roller. This helps reduce moisture uptake through the edges.

Siding, viewed from the west. The horizontal white line across the wall is a Z-flashing installed between the panels of siding. Since the walls are 10 feet high, I had to add a 2' row of panels above the first row. The Z-flashing prevents water from getting in the joint and migrating behind the panels.

I nailed in some quarter round to seal the gaps where the walls and gables meet the soffits.

I picked up a stack of 1x4 cedar boards to construct the exterior corner trim.

Corner trim piece constructed and ready for primer.

Shed with corner trim installed.

View of the south side.

14. Dust collection venting system.

Some of the assembled sections of 4" PVC elbows and tees to be used for the overhead dust collection vents.

I first suspended these fitted pipe components from the ceiling.

Next I connected straight lengths of 4" PVC to connect all the elbows and tees. I suspended the assembly using pipe-hanger straps, keeping it hanging a few inches below the ceiling for now.

I drilled and tapped in a series of 1/2" sheet metal screws at 4" intervals along the sides of all the vent piping. These screws will be interconnected with copper wire, and bonded to ground. This will create electrical continuity to dissipate most of the accumulating static charges on the outside and inside of the PVC.

Winding the #14AWG stranded copper wire to connect all the screws. I had purchased a 100' roll of "antenna wire" from a mail order ham radio supply company. I made one turn of the wire under the head of each screw and tightened.

The ground wire wrapped around the piping and secured under each screw.

Wire jumper around a blast gate to connect the PVC pipe's ground wire to the end of the helical wire inside the flexible tubing used as a drop line.

The dust collection vent system in place. I raised the vent piping the last couple inches to the ceiling and tightened the hanger straps.

15. Electric heater.

I chose to heat my shop with a 5000 watt, 240 volt electric heater. I began installation of this by constructing a hanger bracket from the ceiling.

I used #8AWG SO cable for the heater's cordset.

Here is the cordset with a 30 amp plug connected.

Connection to the heater was a snap, though I had to drill and tap a ground screw into the heater's chassis.

The heater is now installed.

Side view.

View of the back of the heater. The heater has a thermostatic adjustment knob on the back. At full throttle, the heater maintains a temp of about 68F.

Plugged in, ready to go. The first morning I tried it, the heater brought the room temperature from 40F to 68F in about 20 minutes. The heater has a blower to distribute the heated air.

16. Final views.

View from the west. All that remains to be done is to apply a couple coats of paint -- next spring.

View from the south.

The east and north walls.

View from above. Those with a keen eye may have noticed that the shingles are different. After an August hailstorm, we had the roofing replaced on our house, and the shed as well.

A few more recent photos from inside the shop....

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